Prada was destination number two of Resort season. Unfortunately, the show was not a collection of glitz and glam. Prada was in an understated frame of mind. The spare double-breasted black coat that opened the show and the straightforward tailoring that followed it, devoid of any embellishments save for tattersall checks and minimal in the style of her ’90s heyday.
As waiters emerged with trays of drinks and small plates—dinner was served after the show; there was a slew of international editors to feed—Mrs. Prada chatted thoughtfully. “It’s simplicity as a protest against too much."
Her instinct this season was to work with cotton, a humble material put into sharp relief by the bronze duchesse satin pantsuit she wore to take her bow. There were peasant tops with smocking and handmade embroideries, striped button-downs in novel shapes, calico-print jackets and matching pants, and utility suits in solid pastels. Homey sack dresses were patch-worked from those stripes and calicos, and skirts were full and A-line—a silhouette familiar to Prada fans, but somehow more girlish in its proportions, perhaps due to the high-top sneakers worn with thick ribbed socks that many of the looks padded out on.